How To Understitch
Tired of your lining or facings peeking up from the inside of your garment? Understitching solves this problem! Understitching is simply stitching a line close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It comes in especially handy when sewing around a neckline. It keeps the facing, or lining, firmly on the inside of your garment without any stitches showing on the outside.
1.) Stitch the two pieces together right sides facing, following the pattern’s seam allowance.
2.) Once the seam has been stitched, press the seam allowance toward the facing or lining. If you’ve sewn a curved area, such as a neckline, this is a good time to clip or notch any curves.
3.) Stitch between 1/8″ to 1/4″ away from the seam line. Here I used an edgestitch foot as a guide.
4.) Press the facing towards the inside of the garment.
5.) You’re done! The inside should look something like the above photo. Your facing will now lay flat with a crisp edge, preventing it from rolling out of place.
Sometimes you will need to understitch a seam that has corners or other hard to reach areas, which makes it pretty difficult. In this case, just understitch as close to the corner as you can get.