Lace Yoke Tutorial
Lace yokes are yet another nod to classic styles of the past that remain ever so popular in modern designs. Altering our Sencha pattern to incorporate a contrasting yoke is surprisingly easy, and can be varied in quite a few ways to create any look you want! I love the elegant lace we used for this tutorial, but a sheer mesh, polka dot or floral print, or even a contrasting color of the same fabric would add an interesting and unique focal point, too!
Feel free to make the yoke as wide or as narrow as you desire, and if you master this tutorial, try creating a yoke in V shaped chevron or jazz it up with a scalloped edge…just remember to account for seam allowances and retrace the new pattern on a fresh sheet of paper.
- a ruler
- paper scissors
- rotary cutter or fabric sheers
- Sencha version 1 pattern pieces
- fashion fabric for Sencha version 1
- 1/4 yard of lace fabric
- a large sheet of paper
- hand sewing needle
- bias tape maker
Step 1: Cut out pattern pieces for Sencha Version 1, excluding the facing. We’ll be omitting any steps from the pattern instructions regarding the facing because later on we’ll sew a matching bias strip along the neckline that eliminates the need for facing.
Step 2: Pin front bodice to dress form, carefully aligning at shoulders and center front.
Step 3: Decide where you want the yoke to fall on the bodice and draw it on with pencil. Use a ruler to make sure the line you drew makes a right angle at CF.
Step 4: Cut along the pencil line so you have a yoke piece and altered bodice piece.
Step 5: Trace yoke and bodice pieces on regular paper or Swedish tracing paper. Remember to mark darts, drill holes, and CF. Add 5/8″ seam allowance where you altered the pattern along the bottom yoke edge and bodice neckline. Check right angles with a ruler.
Step 6: Cut out new pattern pieces.
Step 7: Place new pattern pieces and back bodice piece on fabric/lace and cut out each piece.
Step 9: Sew a stitch at 5/8″ along bodice neckline. Folding along stitch, press seam with wrong sides together.
Step 10: Now you will assemble lace yoke and front bodice together to make one unit: Pin lace yoke to blouse along seam at 5/8″ and make sure there are no puckers on the right side.
Step 11: Edge stitch neatly so lace yoke and bodice are connected. Press flat.
Step 12: Trim about 1/4″ off along the neckline.
Step 13: Now you will assemble the rest of the blouse according to pattern directions until you get to the back opening. Skip Step 5 of pattern directions: you will sew the back opening closed as you bind the neckline.
Step 14: Edge stitch along lace neckline (within the seam allowance) to avoid fraying.
Step 15: With right sides together, pin opened bias tape to blouse neckline at raw edges. Leave about 1/4″ on bias tape at each end.
Step 16: Sew along pressed crease of bias tape.
Step 17: Tuck in the remaining 1/4″ of bias tape at the ends so you have a clean finish. Fold bias strip over raw edge of neckline and hand sew with an invisible stitch.
Step 18: Finish blouse per pattern directions. Voila!