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Seamwork Issue 03: The Lingerie Issue
It’s time for the February issue of Seamwork: The Lingerie Issue!
We had a lot of fun putting this issue together. Lingerie is one of my favorite topics, and every single story in here got me excited about making something to swan about the house in or wear under my clothes.
I will warn you: this issue is slightly spicy. There is a real human body on display, and a very beautiful, voluptuous one at that. So if you’re sensitive to that sort of thing (or just don’t want your co-workers wondering why you’re looking at an almost-naked lady), you’re warned. Our model is curvy and hot. No shame.
Patterns now available à la carte!
More good news… we’ve now made it possible to buy patterns one at a time from past issues! If you missed a previous back issue, pick up individual patterns for $7 each, or $5 if you’re a current subscriber!
Subscribers still get the two new patterns every month for just $6.
In this issue:
- The Anatomy of a Bra by Norma Loehr: Patternmaker, author, and designer Norma Loehr explains how the parts of a bra work together.
- How to Dye Your Own Elastic by Madalynne Flanigan: Madalynne explains what to do when you can’t find just the right color for that bra or panties.
- VAVA Lingerie talks Sustainable Underthings: We interview designer Alyssa Woods on her approach to sourcing and using sustainable fabrics in her small lingerie line.
- Choosing the Right Lingerie Fabrics: An in-depth look on the types of fabric you can use when sewing your own lingerie and loungewear.
- The Art of Marbled Fabric: Use this centuries-old technique to create gorgeous, swirling custom prints for skivvies, accessories, and more.
- Behind the Seams: We take a peek inside a 1950s bullet bra.
- Swatch Service: We sampled 9 gorgeous stretch laces you could use for the Florence bralette.
We’ve also added a new Resources section, where we link up relevant books, classes, and shops related to the stories in the issue.
Some favorite quotes from this issue:
“If a company hopes to still be thriving in 50 years, sustainability must be a concern.” -Alyssa Woods, VAVA Lingerie
“To understand how underwires work, it helps to think of the Golden Gate Bridge.” -Norma Loehr
“Marbling is a very expressive art. Each print is the culmination of a tiny performance in which the artist interacts with a fluid medium, revealing their temperament.” – Natalie Stopka, textile artist
And here are the two new quick-to-sew patterns in this issue:
This is Florence, a lounge bra made up of wide stretch lace trim and small panels of knit or stretch woven fabric. Florence is a soft cup, longline bralette that’s perfect for sleep, lounging, or any other time you need just a little light support. You can optionally choose to add underwire, or just underwire casing for a little more support (I like it with just the casing, perfect for wearing under pajamas).
Geneva is designed to accompany Florence. These low-rise panties are comfortable and just a bit bare, sitting low on the hips. They come in three variations: A simple cut, a paneled style for mixing fabrics, and a pair with lace inserts. I made these babies in about a half hour!
You can visit Seamwork.com to read the issue, download it from the current issue page, or subscribe to get the patterns.
Comments
Marg in Canada
February 1, 2015 #
Beautiful bras and such a beautiful model! Love it <3
Shannon
February 1, 2015 #
Do you have any advice on sizing the Florence pattern for people with cup sizes other than what’s listed on the pattern? Should we grab the cup pieces from one of the other sizes?
Sarai
February 1, 2015 #
That’s basically what I did. I cut the whole thing according to my cup size, but then when it came time to cut the band, I just cut a smaller size at the center back, so that it would be smaller in circumference. I’m a 32/34D.
Jeri Sullivan
February 2, 2015 #
I’m confused about what size to cut. My underbust measurement in 42 and my bust measurement is 47. Should I cut 2X? The finished bust measurement for a 2X seems off at 46 when the 3X is 44. If you can clarify I would appreciate it.
I love both these patterns and can’t wait to get started. I also very much appreciate the sources provided this month since I had no idea where to get the materials but now don’t have to do an exhaustive search!
Sarai
February 2, 2015 #
Hi Jeri! There were two numbers transposed in the chart originally, but it’s fixed now. :)
Jeri Sullivan
February 2, 2015 #
Thanks, so that means I should cut 2x for my measurements?
Sarai
February 2, 2015 #
It sounds like you’re between an XL and 2X. I’d cut the larger size and simply adjust the band from there. Because the shaping is really simple, it’s very easy to adjust the band to your preference. We also included a seam at the CB for exactly this reason- try as you go!
Peta
February 1, 2015 #
Another beautiful and informative issue! I’ve just subscribed and can’t wait to get started sewing Florence.
Kestrel Lancaster
February 1, 2015 #
This is so excellent, thank you! I’m so interested in these things, and find all the information very helpful, but am still nervous as I’ve never sewn with knits before. Gotta start somewhere!
Sarai
February 1, 2015 #
Be careful, knits are addictive. ;)
Susan Norwood
February 1, 2015 #
It is a beautiful issue and I can’t wait to read it all!! Thank you for the inspiration!!
Melanie
February 1, 2015 #
Your model is absolutely stunning. Seriously. She is amazing.
I am hesitant to make a bra without underwire and proper cups being an E cup (38E in US sizing, argh :( ) but I’ll give Florence a go. No doubt I will be swanning about the house in it soon enough.
Just a quick question too – I like downloading the .pdf edition to my ipad to read later. Is there any chance you could add the option of the mag edition .pdf to the downloads section with the patterns?
thanks :)
Sarai
February 2, 2015 #
You can always add underwire if you like! However, for bralettes like this, I really prefer just the casing for light support that’s still comfy around the house. I can’t do them for everyday bras, but for pajama time they’re perfect!
Another option for more support is to use wider elastic in the bottom band.
It’s sort of like a cupped shelf bra… it keeps you contained yet comfortable, but doesn’t give the full support or silhouette of an underwire bra. :)
Michele
February 2, 2015 #
Oh, my. As much as I’ve enjoyed the previous issues, *this* one had me doing (imaginery) cartwheels out of sheer delight all morning!
I love it all. Thank you.
dani e
February 2, 2015 #
i am loving these magazines! i find myself chomping at the bit for the next one to come out. i love rereading the articles and greatly appreciate that it is with me where ever i go. i know it must be tons of work to put together, but it is very much appreciated! cheers!
Becky
February 2, 2015 #
I’ve been having fun trying to adapt Seamwork patterns for maternity purposes so far–I made an attempt at the Manila leggings last month (which was a bit of a fabric fail, but the alteration worked nicely). I was really excited to see the bra, because it looks like I might be able to adapt it for some nighttime/nursing wear as long as I can find the right hooks! Hopefully I can figure out the right size, since this has bumped me up to an E-cup…
Mary
February 2, 2015 #
On the finished garment measurements for Florence 2x is larger than 3x. Is this correct?
46 for 2x and 44 for 3x?
Kristen
February 2, 2015 #
Those two measurements were reversed! It’s fixed on the PDF now, so you could redownload it if you’d like.
Donna Lafleur
February 2, 2015 #
Thank you for using a normal sized model for your lingerie.
Rachel
February 2, 2015 #
Im not one to leave comments on blogs, but this edition of seamwork has completely blown me away. It is something I truly look forward to every month and this was no exception! I love how you focus on a certain topic and give really great information about it… Id love to see an edition on formal wear in the future!
Sarai
February 2, 2015 #
Great idea, Rachel!
knitmo
February 2, 2015 #
I too was having kittens over seeing the content of this month’s magazine. Major work deadlines have cleared and I’m on to doing some fun sewing and I will definitely be making these.
I will have to figure how to do the large cup size — at a 36HH it might be more than just taking a larger cup size. Must investigate!
Sarai
February 2, 2015 #
I’d love to hear what adjustments you (or any other larger busted ladies) make. I’d imagine that lining the lace would be a good thing to do, with perhaps tricot or even power mesh.
Eleanor
February 2, 2015 #
I love this bra pattern and am looking forward to trying it out.
I have been considering making my own bras for some time, but am unsure if it is possible to keep an underwire from poking you under the arm (if you are large breasted). I have that problem with RTW bras, so I stopped purchasing UWs. But an UW would be much more supportive of the breast tissue.
Jenny
February 2, 2015 #
Thank you so much for using such a beautiful model, she is truly gorgeous, voluptuous, very feminine and sexy. I am a similar shape and size, and struggle with my body image now that I’m no longer the tiny slim young thing I once was, but seeing how beautiful she is helps me see things with new eyes.
These days I choose very ordinary utilitarian underwear based on comfort alone, since I can’t imagine that pretty things would look good on my body, but seeing your model look so beautiful inspires me to think again. I never thought I’d bother making my own lingerie, but I definitely have to give it a go. Thank you again for showing me just how gorgeous real women with curves look, there’s hope for me yet!
Tiffany
February 3, 2015 #
Stunning issue. I haven’t quite worked my skills up to bras and underwear, but nonetheless, I can’t thank you enough for choosing the model you did (she is beautiful!). Seeing these pictures, and reading you be so proud of them, instantly made me feel beautiful. I’ve never been thin, and likely never will be. I tried to be, mostly because of pictures and other girls who were, and nearly starved myself…and still wasn’t very thin! I’ve come to embrace that none of us are supposed to be the same size, and I am in the group that just wasn’t meant to be a “tiny bit of a thing,” but that is ok. Seeing these pictures made me feel even better!
danieli
February 3, 2015 #
That issue finally convinced myself to subscribe. I can’t wait! I’ll try to make a bikini top out of florence, it’s still bikini season down here in the south ;)
Pippa Knight
February 10, 2015 #
Well this issue finally convinced me I needed to subscribe to SeamWork. :)
Just one question about choosing what size to cut on the Florence you give an approximate cup size for the different sizes but what band size do these relate to, as the cup is based on the difference between under bust and bust the volume of different letter cups varies depending on band size.
Im struggling to work out what size I would relate to with only one measurement on the instructions.
Thanks
Tobie
February 22, 2015 #
Making a mock-up of Geneva with on old t-shirt, I noticed that the crotch lining does not end up with the straight across look on the hemmed side (where the sizing letters are) that is later snow in the instructions. The other side has the triangle marks to line up, and get sewn into the front and back. So…should I just serge the other side until it is straight across? Is the pattern piece flipped? Does my question make sense? Without doing a bit of non called for trimming to get the straight line, these would have an awkward extra bit of fabric left over after basing.
Thanks!
Kristen
February 23, 2015 #
Can you email your question and a picture to: contact@seamwork.com
Thanks!
Geri Cooper
March 2, 2015 #
Is there a place we can share garments made with seamwork patterns or tutorials?