What We Made Vol. 3

Here are some of the projects we’ve been working on in the last month here at CPHQ.

Haley’s Lacy Bra

Who: Haley
Role: Managing Editor
Pattern: Shelley Bra by Pin Up Girls
Fabric: A lingerie kit from Blackbird Fabric, plus underwires, additional power mesh, and cup lining from Bra Makers Supply

What was your original inspiration for this project? How did it come to be?

I guess you can say it was an envy sew. I have been hoarding lingerie supplies for about a year. My friend Devon posted a gorgeous picture of a bra she recently made. This picture inspired me to get off my butt and finally make some bras.

I was also really inspired by a few ready-to-wear bras I own. I love Chantelle bras and the range of designs they offer for larger cup sizes, but I tend to be really picky regarding fabric and color, I wanted to challenge myself to create the perfect bra, from fit, to textile, to style.

How do you plan to wear it?

I am excited to wear my new bra, the fit is really great, but needs a few minor adjustments. For this reason I will probably wear it under garments with a relaxed fit.
I am already making pattern adjustments and preparing to sew my second bra.

What did you learn?

I didn’t follow the cutting layouts for this pattern. Instead, I took a critical look at my favorite ready to wear bra. This bra has A LOT of power mesh through out the bridge, band, and power bar. I decided to follow suit, and I am really please with the results. It is such a valuable tool to look at ready-to-wear to gain insight on fabric choice and construction. Seriously, when in doubt spec out your plan by examining your favorite factory made garments!

What are you most proud of?

I am really proud that this bra is almost completely clean finished. You would be hard pressed to tell the different between my me-made bra and a ready-to-wear bra.

Sarai’s Ashy Akita dress

Who: Sarai
Role: Creative Director, cat herder
Pattern: Akita from Seamwork, lengthened to a dress (see below for details!)
Fabric: A slinky mottled taupe Helmut Lang fabric. The fabric is a blend of nylon and other fibers, but I’m not sure what.

What was your original inspiration for this project? How did it come to be?

I loved the fabric when I saw it, and immediately imagined a short sack dress. I didn’t have any pattern in mind… until we released the Akita pattern last month!

Haley wrote a great tutorial for lengthening the Akita into a dress over at the Harts Fabric blog, go check it out!

If you aren’t familiar with this amazing pattern, our designer Kris created it to be cut from one single pattern piece. It is incredibly fast to cut and sew. I loved making it.

How do you plan to wear it?

The fabric is a bit sheer, so I have a slip underneath and wore it with tights and clogs. I think it’d work with short boots too. I layered a cardigan over it and I think it’ll look good with a big scarf when it gets colder. In the summer, I’ll go with flat sandals.

What did you learn?

I wasn’t sure how I’d feel about the synthetic fabric, but I liked the feel so much that I went for it. It ended up being very breathable and decent to work with. I learned to trust my
hands.

What are you most proud of?

I’m proud that I made exactly what I had in mind in about an hour. That’s pretty cool.

Sarai’s Oslo Coat

Pattern: Oslo from Seamwork, modified with our pattern hack
Fabric: Cafe Beige Italian wool sweater knit from Mood

What was your original inspiration for this project? How did it come to be?

I love love love sweater coats! They are so cozy and comfortable, and can replace an actual coat for a good part of the year. I wanted to make Oslo feel a bit more coat-like and substantial, so I chose a thick sweater knit and modified the sleeves. I also made a tie belt and added belt loops rather than buttons.

How do you plan to wear it?

Over dresses, over jeans, you name it.

What did you learn?

The most interesting thing was that I applied some ideas from knitting to this project. I’m currently knitting a big 1960s sweater coat, which has a faced hem and sleeves. The facing gives these edges a lot more body and structure. I did the same here, cutting a separate facing for the wide sleeves. It really made a difference.

What are you most proud of?

Honestly, I’m proud that I stuck to my sewing plan this month and made something I know I’ll wear a ton.

Sarai’s wool Mojis

Pattern: Moji from Seamwork
Fabric: a loose-woven textured wool in black (purchased locally)

What was your original inspiration for this project? How did it come to be?

I have a pair of loose tapered linen pants that I really like, so I wanted a similar feel. I was originally going to make these in a thick black silk, but when I saw this drapey textured wool, I went another direction.

How do you plan to wear it?

It’s basically like wearing fancy pajamas, so I’ll go with that. I think these would look great with a silk shell or camisole. I put a tissue-knit cardigan over this. I won’t go with anything bulkier than that on top, because the pants are so relaxed.

What did you learn?

I added an extra channel of elastic below the drawstring. My thought was that it would help keep the ease even around the waistline, but I don’t think it makes a big difference there. I do like the way it helps keep the pants where I want them when I’m tying the drawstring, though. I’d do it again for that reason.

Second, I learned the importance of pre-finishing all my edges on a loose-woven fabric like this. It frayed like crazy, so serging most of the edges before sewing was a good move and also made the project go faster.

What are you most proud of?

I think the fabric choice was awesome. I have a hard time getting motivated to sew with plain black fabrics even though I love to wear them. So finding something with an exciting texture was key.

Anna’s Sunny Hawthorn

Finally, meet Anna! Anna’s just joined us as a production assistant, helping to prepare and layout patterns. She’s been with us for just about two weeks and we’re so happy to have her join the team.

Who: Anna
Role: Production Assistant
Pattern: Hawthorn by Colette Patterns
Fabric: A medium-weight cotton from Moda, purchased locally at Bolt

What was your original inspiration for this project? How did it come to be?

I’ve wanted to make the Hawthorn pattern for a while, but put it off for some time because I was unsure of what fabric I wanted to make it out of. When this fabric came in to Bolt it just screamed make me into a Hawthorn!! I also recently did a project with covered buttons for the first time, inspired by some vintage shopping, and had the itch to experiment with covered buttons again, so I made some for this Hawthorn. Sometimes that’s just the best way to go!

How do you plan to wear it?

I made this version without sleeves, since the fabric is so bright and summery. However, I am finding this is still perfect for all year as I can layer it and it will be especially cheery in the drearier months ahead. I do plan to make at least one other version with sleeves as I found another great cotton/wool blend fabric at Bolt I would like to see made into this.

What did you learn?

I learned that I really love Hawthorn’s silhouette, and have now been more conscientious of making and buying garments that are similar. I am a pear shape, so having something fitted on the bodice and full on the bottom makes me feel very comfortable and is more flattering.

What are you most proud of?

I am most proud of getting this done while there is still some warm weather left in the year so I don’t have to layer it just yet, and the covered buttons.

What did you make this month?

Feel free to leave a link in the comments (even if it’s just a photo on instagram!) if you have one too. We’d love to see!