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Introducing Rue: A Return to Vintage

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We have a brand new pattern to share today – meet Rue!

We’ve been talking about our creative process a lot on the blog lately. I told you a little bit about our history and team, and how that’s played into our plans and designs. I also talked about our creative process.

Today, I’m excited to share the first pattern for this phase of Colette’s life: the beautiful, vintage-inspired Rue dress. I’ll let Haley take you on a tour of Rue’s features now. – Sarai

Two versions for any season

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Add a vintage touch to your wardrobe with the Rue dress. Rue offers two versions with pieces that can easily be mixed and matched to create the perfect dress for any season.

Both versions of Rue offer a one-of-a-kind bodice. Show-stopping style lines gently curve from the side seams to center front waist, emphasizing the vintage silhouette of this frock. Tucks radiate from the style lines, providing shaping. A scoop neckline adds a dramatic touch to this versatile dress.

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Version 1 features Rue’s signature bodice paired with a lined short sleeve. A paneled pleated skirt gives this dress a vintage silhouette while allowing you to use your fabric economically.

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Version 2 features unlined 3/4-length sleeves, perfect for cooler weather. A subtle A-line skirt shaped with two clustered gathers finishes this sophisticated dress.

Sewing patterns that teach

Have you ever participated in one of our Sewalongs? The Sewalong for Rue starts next week! Our fabulous Producer, Katie, will take you step-by-step through Rue’s construction. Pick up your copy of Rue in the shop now, and stay tuned for the official start date and sign-up.

You’ll learn these skills when you make Rue, and we’ll cover them all in the Sewalong:
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So many fabric possibilities!

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Since Rue can be made for any season, you’re going to have so much fun shopping for fabric. The possibilities are endless! Rue is perfect for showing off stripes and large prints, so don’t be afraid to make a statement.

For the main fabric, choose a medium-weight woven, such as seersucker, linen, quilting cotton, wool suiting, flannel, chambray, double gauze, to name a few!

For the lining, choose lightweight wovens with a smooth hand, such as acetate lining, silk lining, rayon bemberg, polyester lining, silk cotton blends, or cotton lawn.

Make Your Rue One-of-a-Kind

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  • Mix and match two sleeve and skirt options
  • Add piping to define Rue’s style lines
  • Try color blocking for a bold look
  • Experiment with striped fabric for directional lines
  • Showcase your stash with a bold print

Watch a short video featuring Rue below:

Watch on Vimeo

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Rue can also be found at these stores:

Shop your local fabric store! Rue can also be found at any of these fabulous retailers worldwide.

Haley Glenn

Editorial Director

Five years ago, Haley left the apparel industry to join the world of home sewing. She has been empowering women to sew ever since – first through years of in-person teaching at Sew LA, and now through her writing at Colette. Haley writes tutorials and articles on our blog, teaches sewalongs, and writes and edits for our magazine, Seamwork.

Comments

colleen

September 6, 2016 #

Hi there,

I’ve been pondering this pattern all weekend long as it got leaked. It’s really adorable but the first thing I want to know — and you all probably know this already — what will that upper bodice do with a large bust? It’s so cute and I’m going to buy it, but I worry that it’ll be a terrible disappoint on me! Really cute and I adore that golden rose fabric. It’s my dream dress….but the boob question needs to be addressed!!! Thanks!

colleen

September 6, 2016 #

Ugh. I wish I could edit this as I went crazy on the exclamation points. Please bear with my excitement…..

Katie

September 6, 2016 #

Hey Coleen! We are glad you are as excited about Rue as we are. The Sewalong for Rue will start on Monday and I will be walking everyone through bust height, full bust, and small bust adjustments. The Sewalong will open for enrollment tomorrow, in Sarai’s post.

In the meantime, our buddy, Vintage on Tap, made a video all about making her Rue. She has a larger bust, and her finished Rue will give you a good idea of how Rue looks on a busty lady. We will be posting photos and tutorials all about Rue for the next month. We hope to show as many different versions and body types as possible. ;)

Suzanne

September 6, 2016 #

Thanks, seeing the Vintage on Tap photos was helpful.

Stephani

September 7, 2016 #

Yes, indeed, Vintage on Tap’s version of Rue is stunning and very helpful to see how it will look on us fuller-figured women!

Dana Tougas

September 7, 2016 #

Thanks for the link to Vintage on Tap, it was super helpful!

Betty Jordan Wester

September 6, 2016 #

This dress is beautiful. As soon as it comes to my local shop, I’m buying it. So far, it looks like you guys did a great job. I appreciate that you gave two skirts and two sleeve lengths, because the bodice is going to take a bit of fitting, so after I fit it, I’ll be able to make a couple of dresses instead of just one. I noticed it has those little front gathers on the skirt. I always think of this as a Colette design feature, and I love them.

Jessica

September 6, 2016 #

My question is where does the seam lie along the bust? It is meant to be under the bust, over the apex, or some where in-between? Would love to see information on doing bust adjustments on this cute pattern!

Haley

September 6, 2016 #

Hi Jessica! The shaped seam hits 5/8″ below the apex on sizes 0-8, and 1″ below the apex on sizes 10-26. The sewalong will include all the details regarding bust adjustments on September 20th. We will be opening registration for the sewalong tomorrow, so stay tuned for that!

Jessica

September 6, 2016 #

Thank you! Super helpful in getting the fit right.

Amy

September 7, 2016 #

So the gathers end up right over the bust apex? I have a hard time picturing that on a full bust. This dress is gorgeous on the models (I especially love the striped version!), but I suspect it won’t work well for many of us. I’ll have to skip the sew-along so I can see more finished versions on more body types before I buy the pattern.

Haley

September 7, 2016 #

The tucks begin at the seam right below the apex. I am a bustier gal myself, and my Rue turned out great with a full bust adjustment. We will be sharing my version on the Sewalong, so definitely stay tuned for that! Check out Vintage on Taps version of Rue in the meantime. She is a bustier lady and her version is absolutely stunning.

Jeanette

September 7, 2016 #

I’m questioning the horizontal seam at the bust, as well. It looks like it run over the lower portion of the bust, rather than under it. Is that right?

Haley

September 7, 2016 #

Hi Jeanette, The shaped seam hits 5/8″ below the apex on sizes 0-8, and 1″ below the apex on sizes 10-26.

Debbie Cook

September 7, 2016 #

Then I’m curious why Sarai’s are hitting a good inch or sow below the bust, and a good couple of (or more) inches below the apex? There’s a lot of confusion on this around the intarwebz and I’m hoping you can clear that up (before a sew-along that I won’t be sewing along to?). Thanks!

Haley

September 7, 2016 #

Hi Debbie, Sarai made her green plaid Rue from a flannel shirting, which has a tendency to stretch, that paired with her bust adjustment resulted in a lower seamline. Her pink version of Rue, reflects seam placement straight out of the envelope. I hope that helps to clarify!

Karen Hunt j

September 6, 2016 #

Love this pattern. So cute. Like others my only concern is will this pattern work for those with a larger cup size. Congrats on this beautiful pattern.

Mary H

September 6, 2016 #

I love you patterns but don’t buy them because they’re all made for a C cup, and I’m an A. And for this one, even if I could manage a small bust adjustment, I can’t help wondering how people keep their bra straps from showing with such a wide neckline.

Haley

September 6, 2016 #

The lovely Katie will be covering small bust adjustments in the Rue Sewalong. We will be opening enrollment for the sewalong starting tomorrow, so stay tuned!

Sarai

September 6, 2016 #

I’ll be posting my versions tomorrow, and I wore both with a regular bra with no problem. I think that if you wear bras with wide straps and find that it’s a problem, adjusting the neckline is super super easy. Today, I’m wearing a bra with slightly wide (1/2 inch) straps and it’s fine. :)

Pelly

September 7, 2016 #

The thing is, Sarai, you do appear to have wider than usual shoulders and I suspect that is reflected in your patterns . I’ve seen many people commenting on how wide Colette necklines are. If there is an easy way to alter this, I hope you will provide that information (perhaps as a how-to hack post) as I’m sure it would be appreciated by many.

Sarai

September 7, 2016 #

I’ll see if Katie’s planning to cover this in the sewalong.

Just to give some context since I don’t think we’ve talked about this much on the blog… I am not a fit model, thank goodness. :) We use a pro for that.

Ciara

September 8, 2016 #

Colette patterns are always really wide in the shoulders though. I made the Licorice dress from the book & it was essentially off-the-shoulder on both sides, & I have pretty average shoulders. I’ve sewn patterns from dozens of other indies, plus Big 4, & don’t have this issue with any company except Colette. I know to adjust for it now if I do sew a Colette pattern, but the block you guys use is definitely broader than average through the shoulder.

Alice

September 6, 2016 #

I just have to chime in to say that this post includes what may be the first photo I’ve seen (well, since I started looking) of someone in a woven dress lifting an arm, and it’s good to know that it’s possible! How much ease is in the sleeve? I have fairly large upper arms for my pattern size and I wonder if that may be why I’ve never been able to lift my arms in handmade woven sleeves.

Haley

September 6, 2016 #

Hi Alice,

On the model featured the long sleeve has about an inch of easy while the short sleeve is a bit roomier with 2 inches of ease. You may want to try a wide bicep adjustment to accommodate larger arms. Lowering the armscye can also help when you encounter this issue.

Ciara

September 8, 2016 #

Lowering the armscye would actually make this problem much, much worse. There was an article about this in “Threads” a few months ago. Lowering the armscye could mean the sleeve was attached to that much more of the bodice, which might help to the opening wider, but would restrict movement considerably more. Think about the way the bodice of a garment with batwing sleeves moves when you move your arms. Because the sleeve is attached to so much of the bodice, the garment shifts & pulls with arm movements. It’s not an issue in a garment designed to behave that way (usually with plenty of ease through the sleeve & torso & sewn with a knit). But that effect on a fitted, tailored dress like Rue would be a disaster.

Haley

September 8, 2016 #

I absolutely agree that lowering the underarm significantly can exacerbate this issue, it is important though to have enough room to allow ease in movement. On a fitted woven dress with sleeves the armscye should be hit between 1/2″ and 3/4″ below where the arm meets the body. I hope that this clarifies!

Sarah

September 6, 2016 #

What a beautiful dress! Version 2 is in my sewing sights :)

Emma

September 6, 2016 #

I am beyond thrilled to see this design. I have been sewing your patterns since the beginning and this really does seem like a return to your roots. I ordered it immediately! Kudos to you for really listening to your customers and for continuing to hone your design vision.

Isabelle

September 6, 2016 #

I love this dress and bought the pattern, I’m looking forwards to sewing it for fall. I’ll be following the sew along closely as I might have some kind of bust adjustment to do. You’ve done such a great job on this one!

Nadia

September 6, 2016 #

I’m really excited about this dress patern. I bought it already and will inscrive myself to my first sewlong!

Laura

September 6, 2016 #

This is so pretty. I have been hoping for a dress with stripe directional play.

I have both versions in mind. Out of curiosity (for my Hart’s fabric cart) , what would you use to line double gauze?

Haley

September 6, 2016 #

Hey Laura, I would line double gauze with something like a cotton silk sateen. I have worked with this fabric before and it is absolutely dreamy!

Laura

September 6, 2016 #

Thank you! It’s gorgeous and machine washable <3

Haley

September 7, 2016 #

It is one of my favorite linings of all time!

Helen

September 6, 2016 #

I totally fell in love with the neckline of this dress! And the fit looks fantastic on the model. I love the branding you have done for Rue. The video is so sweet and memorable (but I do wish I could see more of the dress itself not covered by the cardigan, with the model moving her arms). I’m going to join the sewalong and for once actually follow through it until the end!

Katie

September 6, 2016 #

Yay! I am so excited for the sewalong! You can sign-up here, if you’d like ;)

Helen

September 12, 2016 #

I’ve signed up and just bought the digital pattern!
BTW thanks for including both metric and imperial measurements for fabric requirements. It save me a lot of time at the fabric store. I don’t have to punch in as many numbers into the units conversion app on my phone!

Helen

September 12, 2016 #

Oh and also… all the photos of Sarai’s version 1 & 2 dresses were helpful to see how the dress moves. Thanks!!

Lynda

September 6, 2016 #

Lovely dress, congrats. I’d love to challenge myself to make this, I just have to hem my Selene :)). I have narrow shoulders and the wide neckline ‘scares’ me (as it did with the lovely Dahlia which I haven’t tackled) will there be help in the sew-a-long to help with this and/or would it be ‘easy’ to alter the neckline? thanks for all Colette does.

Ana Claasen

September 6, 2016 #

Huh, I signed up for your pattern preview list and I just realized that I never got an email. That’s a shame. I would love this as a sleeveless dress. Do you have any plans to have a blogpost on how to modify the armscye for this?

Ankan

September 7, 2016 #

This is a very cute design, but I really don’t need another dress with a scoop neckline… I would love to see a tutorial on how to redraft it! Or even better, one of those extra pattern packages that usually features pockets but with neckline versions instead. I would definitely buy that!

Barbara

September 8, 2016 #

I second that. I so want to like the Rue but the neckline turns me off. I went through multiple tries with the Dahlia but ended up giving up. When I saw Rue’s neckline was similar, I just wrote it off. A neckline variation package would change the game for me.

Ledys

September 7, 2016 #

What a beautiful dress! Guys, would you post a link to what these two fabrics are? They are both beautiful! Congratulations on another lovely pattern :-)

Katie

September 7, 2016 #

Hey Ledy! The yellow fabric is Botanica III Royal Roses and somehow we cannot find the exact fabric of the green stripe. Here are a few options here and here, that would work well.

Stephani

September 7, 2016 #

I’m really excited about this design and Colette’s return to vintage style in your print patterns. I purchased it as soon as the preview email hit my inbox! Can’t wait to sew up a few work-wear versions!

Rachel Holdredge

September 7, 2016 #

I can’t wait to get this one, it’s perfect. Can I ask where the yellow rose print fabric is from? So gorgeous.

Katie

September 7, 2016 #

Hey Rachel! See my reply to Ledy above. :)

Ruthann

September 7, 2016 #

Love this cutie! Just ordered the printed pattern, might actually even make this one for myself with a FBA. Can we sign on for the sew along and catch up? Not sure if it will make it to me in time and couldn’t find fabric requirements although God knows there will be something in my studio to use! This will be fun!

Katie

September 7, 2016 #

The fabric requirements can be found here, under details. Sewalong enrollment is open, you can sign-up here!

Ruthann

September 7, 2016 #

Thank you, I did sign up :) Now to plot and plan!

Ruthann

September 7, 2016 #

Thank you, I did sign up :) Now to plot and plan! I make all my 3 yr. old granddaughter’s clothing and trust me, she is a couture-chick! Now to get my wardrobe up to snuff!

Courtney

September 10, 2016 #

Love the Rue! Wanting to do the sewalong but wonder what skill level this pattern would be considered?

Katie

September 12, 2016 #

This pattern will take you through step-by-step at any level. While sewing Rue you will learn to sew tucks, pleats, and gathers. As well as instal an invisible zipper and a full lining into the dress. The Sewalong is a great place to get support and photo examples of the construction if you need a little extra help.

Katie

September 12, 2016 #

Our patterns are designed for any skills level, our step-by-step instructions will teach you everything you need to know. The Rue pattern will teach you how to sew tucks, pleats, and gathers. As well as, install an invisible zipper and a full lining. Joining the sewalong is a great idea. There, you’ll see photo examples of all alterations and construction details as well as support from other’s sewing up Rue.

Courtney

September 12, 2016 #

Thank you Katie! I am very excited for the sewalong, it’s the first one I have done.

Nia

September 13, 2016 #

Does this pattern have pockets?