Choosing the right fabric: Rue

Shopping for fabrics for your next big project is arguably the best part of sewing. Of course, we’ve got to talk fabric and supplies for Rue! This delightful little number is especially fun to talk about because it is so versatile and can be made in such variety of fabrics.

Choosing Your Fabric

For versions 1 and 2, choose a medium weight woven fabric. It is important to find a fabric with a good balance between structured and light. Fabrics that are too heavy will lay stiff and awkwardly from the form, but fabrics that are too light may lack the needed structure for the bodice shaping.

Medium weight is a broad term for all sorts of fabrics and Rue is designed to accommodate that spectrum. For instance, flannel will have a much different drape than a shirting. Both of these fabrics are a great choice for Rue and in the fitting post in the Rue Sewlong, we will discuss tips for using differing weights of fabrics.

Rue features some very distinct style lines on the bodice; keep this in mind when choosing fabrics. If your fabric’s design is really busy the style lines may get lost. If that’s what you’re going for, that’s great, but if not, you can opt for piping the style lines to bring more attention to them.

Your lining choice will depend on which fabric you choose as an outer fabric. I always go for what I love and know, cotton voiles and lawns. Both of these substrates offer breathability and are soft on the skin. I’ve noticed that when I’ve lined dresses in synthetics, I get uncomfortable once I’ve been in the dress for a few hours, i.e. I get sweaty. If you do choose to use a synthetic, make sure it’s a nice quality.

Counteracting your lining weight with your main fabric weight can sometimes be handy. For instance, if your main fabric is a flannel or wool, try lining with a silk in order to avoid adding unnecessary bulk to your Rue.

One of my favorite things about a lined garment is finding the perfect pair of outer fabric and lining. Even if no one else will see my lining, I know it looks so good, inside and out!

Fabric Options

Rue has a very classic shape that can be worn in the office or out on date night. I like to think of an occasion that I’ll be wearing my garment to before I go fabric shopping. It reins me in a bit and keeps me from making duplicates in my wardrobe.

Here are a few pairings of outer and lining fabrics that could make great Rues for different occasions.

Party

1. Metallic Blue and Green Floral Brocade paired with Estate Blue China Silk/Habotai from Mood Fabrics.

2. Manchester Metallic paired with Twist Cambric from M is for Make in the U.K.

Office

1. Essex Yarn Dyed Linen paired with a Italian Floral Cotton Lawn, Blue from Hart’s Fabric.

2. Robert Kaufman Shetland Flannel paired with Cotton + Steel’s Hana Rayon from The Confident Stitch.

Weekend Farmer’s Market

1. Tuscany Pinstripe Chambray Linen paired with a Cotton Voile Solid from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics.

2. Seven Island Citrus Multi paired with Cotton+Steel’s Solid Lawn from Fancy Tiger Crafts.

A More Few Fabric Options

Outer Fabrics

1. Kokka, Tsumiki Border from The Cloth Pocket in Austin, TX.
2. Red Stripe Seersucker from Fabric Depot in Portland, OR.
3. Merchant & Mills Augusta Classic Check Wool Flannel from Stitch 56 in Australia.
4. Cotton+Steel Banbana Grass, quilting cotton from Fancy Tiger Crafts in Denver, CO.
5. Sevenberry Indigos Crosses from Backstitch in the UK.
6. Nani Iro, ‘Komorebi – Sunshine Filtering through Foliage’ from The Drapery in Australia.
7. Cotton+Steel Space Thistles, double cotton gauze from Hawthorne Threads from Red Hook, NY.
8. Jennifer Sampou Shimmer 2 Floral Fabric, from Craftsy.com

Lining Fabrics

1. Unicorn Poly Crepe from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, CA.
2. Robert Kaufman London Calling, Lawn Flowers & Leaves Autumn from Fabric.com.
3. Charley Harper Nurture Feathers Organic Voile from Harts Fabrics in Santa Cruz, CA.
4. Cotton+Steel Playful, Pink Vintage Floral Lawn from The Workroom in Canada.
5. Bemberg Rayon Lining from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, CA.
6. Moonstruck China Silk/Habotai from Moodfabrics.com
7. Rayon Voile from Harts Fabrics in Santa Cruz, CA.
8. Polycotton Lining from Ray-Stitch in the UK

Rue Sewalong Fabric Choices

I will be making Version 1 of Rue with Tapestry Black from Cotton+Steel. This fabric is from their new Les Fleurs Collection by Rifle Paper Co. I’m pairing it with a Cotton+Steel solid lawn in Indigo.

For Version 2, for my main fabric, I choose Rosa in Peach, also from the Les Fleurs Collection. I’m pairing it with a Cotton+Steel solid lawn in Peach.

I will be cutting the Side Front Bodice in a contrasting fabric, Shot Cotton in Tobacco. My hope is to counteract the cutesy-ness of the floral print by mixing in this bold neutral.

Want to learn more? Join the Sewalong!

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